Balkan Family Travel: How to Road Trip Albania and North Macedonia with Kids
Meet Katie aka @When4Explore, and her adventurous crew who set off on a family road trip through Albania and North Macedonia. From coastal drives and mountain passes to historic towns and lakeside stops, they proved the Balkans can be both adventurous and family-friendly. Here’s their guide and itinerary to help you plan your own epic trip!
Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia by @When4Explore
Where is Albania + North Macedonia
Albania and North Macedonia, nestled in the Balkans beside well-known Greece and across the Adriatic from Italy, are two lesser-known countries now experiencing a tourism boom. Southern Albania’s beaches, in particular, are becoming a hotspot for all ages, with turquoise waters earning the nickname “the Maldives of Europe.” But that’s not what drew us in. What captured our attention was the rich culture, colourful history, and the natural beauty of the lakes, mountains, and hillside cities. Once we started researching Albania, we knew we had to go — and with North Macedonia just next door, it made perfect sense to explore the south of that country too.
Udenisht, small village experience by @When4Explore
Itinerary
Tirana, Albania
Elbasan, North Macedonia
Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia
Udenisht, Albania
Korçë, Albania
Berat, Albania
Himarë, Albania
Golem, Albania
Krujë, Albania
When we Travelled
We travelled in late May into early June — our ideal time to avoid both the summer heat and the crowds. With two young children, it makes the trip more enjoyable and less hectic. We booked flights with Ryanair, flying from Stansted into Tirana.
Budget
Our trip budget was mid-level — not bougie, but not exactly roughing it either. We're no longer hostel types (not just because our budget allows, but because we’re probably not great to share with). Our evenings are spent whispering on balconies trying not to wake the kids, and our early starts would terrify the average backpacker. Still, early mornings mean we beat the crowds and manage to squeeze in two breakfasts — that’s balance.
We usually book through Airbnb or Booking and spend between £45 and £100 per night — typically looking for a place with a kitchen, two bedrooms, and a nice spot to enjoy our evenings, like a balcony, terrace, or garden.
Getting to Albania
Landing in Tirana, we headed straight to collect our car, loaded up with car seats, prams, luggage, and plenty of snacks — then hit the road. Eager to get to Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia, we drove an hour from Tirana to Elbasan, a city that may not be a major tourist destination but offered a welcoming and relaxed introduction to Albania.
North Macedonia
The next morning, we set out for breakfast (and of course, coffee), then wandered through some beautiful gardens toward the castle — and were pleasantly surprised to find a beautifully restored site with cafés, toilets, and an incredible children’s park. We’d struck parenting gold. Fueled by byrek and caffeine, and with the kids worn out, we continued on to Ohrid. The border crossing was smooth, and we checked in to a stunning apartment in Peshtani, a peaceful fishing village just outside the city. Over the next three nights, we explored everything the area had to offer: the lake, the Church of Sveti Jovan Kaneo, Samuel's Fortress, the Monastery of Saint Naum, the Ohrid Boardwalk, and the Bay of Bones Museum. We spent time in lakeside parks, ate plenty of ice cream, and dipped our toes in the water.
A standout was our visit to Trpejca Beach — beautiful, quiet, and unspoilt. We had an incredible lunch at Taverna Mrestilishte, where the food was fresh, local, and seriously delicious.
Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia by @When4Explore
back to albania
Heading back into Albania, our next destination wasn’t far — we drove to Udenisht, a small village overlooking the lake. We stayed in an Airbnb with gorgeous gardens and a very cheeky puppy. From here, we visited the sights of Korçë, Driloni National Park, and Pogradec. A real highlight was simply wandering around the village: hanging out with the goats, picking cherries from our host’s tree, chatting with the incredibly friendly locals, and relaxing in the evenings on the terrace with a view of the lake. Bliss!
Korçë by @When4Explore
Berat, Albania
Next stop: Berat — a must-see for anyone. We were so pleasantly surprised by both the city and our apartment that we immediately extended our stay. We explored the charming old quarters, wandered the cobbled streets, and admired the unique Ottoman architecture. We also hiked up to Berat Castle — a steady climb that was manageable with children and well worth the effort. At the top, we of course had ice cream, played a quick game of chess with a local, and took in the sweeping views across the city.
Himarë, Albania
Next stop: Himarë. En route, we visited the Monastery of Saint Mary of Zvërnec, located on a small island in the Narta Lagoon near Vlorë — a great pit stop to stretch our legs and find a local spot to eat. From there, we continued along the coast, excited to see more of the stunning shoreline. Himarë was laid-back and scenic, and the turquoise waters didn’t disappoint. The children loved playing on the stony beaches and paddling in the sea. It was clear the area was preparing for a busy season, with construction and sunbeds popping up everywhere, so we felt quietly lucky that the little beach near our accommodation remained mostly untouched — perfect for the kids to run around freely. The choice of restaurants was plentiful, and eating out was much cheaper than shopping at the supermarkets.
Himarë, Albania by @When4Explore
Golem, Albania
After Himarë, we headed north, driving the scenic Llogara Pass and stopping off at some beautiful coastal towns along the way for a cold drink and a much-needed break from the car.
We eventually arrived in Golem, where we planned to base ourselves to explore sites within a one- to two-hour drive. The beach here was sandy — a big win for the kids — and we could see the whole area slowly coming to life as the summer season approached. There were plenty of lovely restaurants nearby, and we enjoyed some stunning sunsets while the children played by the water. Although there is a minor rubbish issue in the area, we’d heard that efforts are underway to improve this.
Day Trips from Golem
From Golem, we had some fantastic day trips, including one to the Dajti Ekspres Cable Car, just outside Tirana. It was a brilliant experience — the cable car spans 4.5 kilometers, making it one of the longest in the Balkans. At the top, there’s loads to do, including mini golf, parks that kept the kids entertained, and a restaurant with spectacular views. Sitting down to a delicious local meal while looking out across the entire city was a real "pinch me" moment.
Views of Tirana, Albania by @When4Explore
Afterwards, we took the cable car back down and made our way to Bunk’Art 1, a Cold War-era bunker now turned into a fascinating underground museum of history and contemporary art. Visiting Bunk’Art 1 was a fascinating and slightly surreal experience — walking through the cold, concrete tunnels of the massive underground bunker gave a real sense of Albania’s recent history, both eerie and eye-opening.
Another day trip worth mentioning is Divjaka-Karavasta National Park, where we spent a peaceful day surrounded by pine forests, lagoons, and birdsong. We even got up close with a pelican, and the visitor centre was really informative about Albania’s wildlife.
The next few days were spent exploring locally and relaxing on the beach — with temperatures rising, being by the coast was a welcome relief.
Our final night was spent in Krujë — a place we easily could have stayed for at least two nights. Wandering the old bazaar, exploring the castle and museums, and indulging in our last taste of Albania, Krujë was truly wonderful.
Krujë Bazaar by @When4Explore
Leaving Albania and North Macedonia was emotional — we truly experienced the spirit of both countries, yet our journey left us wanting more. As the children grow older and more independent, we’re already dreaming of returning to explore the mountains, nearby villages, and uncover even more of what these beautiful places have to offer.
