Crossing Borders: A family Guide from Corfu to Albania

Its no secret Albania is having a moment right now. With new infrastructure in the new Vlora Airport opening in March 2025 and Tirana Airports getting some major upgrades, its never been easier to visit this up and coming destination.

We head there today with Joanne aka @DIYTravelBlog and her teenage kids as they travel from Corfu, Greece to Sarande, Albania for a week long adventure. Lets go!

Why Albania?

Our first visit to Albania was sparked by curiosity. During a trip to Corfu in 2020, we caught glimpses of Albania’s dramatic mountains across the water. My eldest daughter, captivated by the view, suggested we visit Sarandë. She was drawn to the idea of exploring a lesser-travelled European destination with stunning coastlines and crystal-clear waters. Since Sarandë is just a short ferry ride from Corfu, we decided to add a week in Albania to our trip. We visited in August 2023, staying in both Sarandë and Ksamil. We knew August would be peak season—crowded and hot—but, like many families, we were limited to the school holidays.

About Sarandë

Sarandë is a small, hilly coastal city in southern Albania, nestled along the Ionian Sea. It offers a unique blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage, with a long waterfront promenade, bustling nightlife, and easy access to historical sites. Nearby Ksamil is famed for its white sandy beaches and turquoise waters, often called the “Maldives of Europe.”

How We Got There

• Flight: We flew from Bristol to Corfu International Airport (CFU) with EasyJet. Our flight landed too late for the last ferry to Sarandë, so we stayed overnight at a hotel near Corfu’s port and caught the morning ferry.

• Ferry: We took the 35-minute ferry from Corfu to Sarandë with Ionian Seaways. It’s best to arrive an hour early for passport control.

• Car Hire: We rented a car for a day trip to The Blue Eye and Gjirokastër and again for our four days in Ksamil.

Our Budget

• Mid-Level (££): Our 7-day trip for a family of five cost approximately £700 for accommodation, making it an affordable option compared to other European destinations.

Where We Stayed

Sarandë: Vila Ahmeti - A family-run hotel with a welcoming atmosphere, Vila Ahmeti was a comfortable base for exploring the city. Located on a hill, it was a 10-minute walk to the centre and beach—though the walk back was quite steep! Our two-bedroom apartment had a shower room, balcony, and a small plunge pool outside. Each morning, we enjoyed a delicious traditional Albanian breakfast prepared by our hosts.

Ksamil: Mario Apartments - Finding accommodation in Ksamil was a challenge. Two of our original bookings were cancelled at the last minute, which we later learned is common due to frequent changes in property ownership. We ended up at Mario Apartments, which was basic but comfortable. If you’re visiting, I’d highly recommend confirming bookings directly with the accommodation before arrival.

Exploring Sarandë

Sarandë has a lovely waterfront promenade, lined with palm trees, shops, bars, and restaurants. At night, it comes alive with families enjoying evening strolls, beautifully lit restaurants, and a vibrant, yet safe, atmosphere.

Places to Visit

• Kroreza Beach – Accessible only by boat, this secluded beach was one of the highlights of our trip. We spent the entire day sunbathing, swimming, snorkelling, and diving off the boat into the crystal-clear water. Boat trips to Kroreza depart from Sarandë’s harbour.

• The Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër) – A stunning natural spring with mesmerizing blue waters. Although swimming isn’t allowed, you can paddle in the surrounding river, where the water is an icy 10°C! My children loved it, but it was far too cold for me. The walk from the car park is about a mile, and there’s a café nearby for refreshments.

• Gjirokastër – A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this historic town features Ottoman-era architecture and a fascinating castle. We explored the castle and enjoyed a relaxed lunch in town, where the locals were incredibly warm and welcoming.

• Ksamil Beaches – Despite their reputation as the “Maldives of Europe,” we found the beaches overcrowded and the water cloudy during peak season. Sunbed hire is mandatory at most beaches, with prices reaching an outrageous €70 per sunbed!

  Fortunately, we discovered Ohana Beach, a bit further around the cove. It was less crowded, had clear water, and offered sunbeds at a reasonable €5 each. The friendly staff and on-site restaurant made it our favourite beach in Ksamil. Getting to Ksamil from Saranda took longer than expected due to heavy summer traffic—what should have been an hour’s drive turned into a slow crawl.

• Butrint National Park – A 15-minute drive from Ksamil, Butrint is an archaeological treasure with ruins dating back to Ancient Greece and Roman times. We spent a couple of hours exploring the amphitheatre, acropolis, and palace, all set in a stunning natural landscape. It was a great mix of history and scenery, making it a

  fascinating stop for the whole family.

Food Recommendations

Albanian cuisine has a strong Greek and Italian influence, with plenty of fresh seafood, grilled meats, and vegetarian dishes. One of our favourite dining experiences was at Oda e Babës, a traditional Albanian restaurant offering a meze-style selection of local dishes—perfect for trying a bit of everything! At the time, a meal for five people, including drinks, cost around £50 in most restaurants.

Family Travel Tips

Transportation

• Buses are the cheapest way to get around.

• Taxis are expensive, so renting a car is the best option for exploring beyond Sarandë. Book car hire from the port in advance for better availability.

• Driving in the city can be chaotic, but roads outside are much easier to navigate. Car rental standards aren’t great, so choose a reputable company.

Seasonal Considerations

• August is extremely busy. For a more relaxed experience, visit in late spring or early autumn when crowds thin out.

Accommodation Cancellations

• Last-minute cancellations are common, so confirm bookings directly before you arrive.

Currency

Albania has a closed currency, meaning Lek can’t be exchanged outside the country. While most places accept Euros, you’ll need to withdraw Lek from local ATMs for better exchange rates.

Cultural Expectations

Albania is a country of contrasts. While the landscapes are breathtaking, infrastructure isn’t as polished as other European beach destinations.

Albania truly surprised us. Sarandë was the perfect mix of relaxation, adventure, and culture, and we were blown away by the stunning landscapes and historical sites. Compared to other European destinations, it offers incredible value for money.

Despite the August crowds, we had a fantastic trip and would love to return—ideally during a quieter season—to experience the beaches at their best. If you’re visiting Corfu, adding a trip to Sarandë is absolutely worth it!